Replacement Handles

We carry everything from competition-grade tomahawks to solid steel throwing axes. These throwing axes will accommodate you whether you’re an amateur in the backyard or a professional taking part in competitions. Just rub on, let dry then buff with a soft cloth, and you’re done. Waxes can wear off a lot faster than oil, but they are so easy to use, it’s often worth it. In my experience linseed oil tends to age and darken a little more than tung oil. And tung oil tends to maintain a more neutral color longer.

Some people prefer to use raw or organic linseed oil due to health concerns. Finally, linseed oil can be mixed with additives such as pine tar, turpentine, and beeswax . If it is heated and applied warm, penetration is improved. So, I suggest cutting and stacking before seasoning. Look and find the grain of the wood, you don’t want to hit to the center but into the edge because it’s harder in the middle. Also, you should pay attention to the grain orientation. It should run parallel with the length of the handle, not perpendicular. If the orientation is off its road too far, it’s likely that the handle is weak.

Notice the gap on the butt end of the eye before and after the metal wedge is installed (pic 4 & 5). Once the wedge is in, round off the sharp edge where you cut the handle with some sandpaper and go start choppin’. You can see in pic 5 that I drove the wedge in until it was flush with the top of the handle. I think that had the handle been shorter, I could have driven the wedge in further. I tried to fix this by cutting away the handle on both sides of the wedge so I could drive the wedge deeper . Either the glue had already set up, or the wedge was bottomed out in the slot in the handle because the wedge just split to pieces . The next step is to cut off some of the excess handle sticking out the top. This is to ensure that the wedge can be driven far enough into the eye to spread the handle to fill the gaps. You can see how much I cut off, but I should have cut off more .

At a time when many power tools are king, hand tools still remain the top choice for several indoor and outdoor tasks. Hand axes, for example, are used for splitting wood, breaking through barriers and cleaning out dense vines or brush. The overall weight Council Tool 2# Wood-Craft Pack Axe is 2.75 lbs. The weight of the axe head is 2 lbs, and it’s made with 5160 American Steel. The length of the American hickory axe handle is 24 inches. You can use this 24-inch Stansport Wood Handle Axe for chopping logs or woods like a champ. Each head of this axe is drop forged carefully that turns it into a perfect, stronger and durable tool. The flat back of the axe-head is very effective for hammering. The hardwood handle is sturdy enough to handle any kind of strenuous use. Moreover, the handle is much longer to provide better leverage to complete the job perfectly.

However, axes today come in several specialized forms for different uses. Using the wrong type of axe, you may come to no benefits but wasting money. Very simple process that keeps your tools in proper order. I just applied another coat of blo to my GB Outdoor Axe. Linseed oil has been used for ages without any drying agents on wood. It will only get gummy and sticky, if the excess is not wiped off, but the same holds true for boiled linseed oil. My oldest and most used SFA is a little less fine in its edge than a new one but that’s down to wear and how I sharpen it.

Wood handle axe

The Head is made of solid steel that can also be used to shape flat surface beams from round logs. Head apart from the sharp blade is designed to perform splitting tasks and the back end of the axe head is pointed, almost pick shaped. This shape allows firefighters to break down doors and windows in an emergency. Very much similar in terms of size as compared with the felling axe but it’s used to split wood across the grain rather than cut into it. Splitting mauls do have a hammer shape at the back end of the blade for pounding wooden wedges or tent stakes. The head has an eye-shaped hole where the handle is mounted to give it a complete shape. Some of the heads are like a hammer at the back end for pounding wooden wedges or tent stakes into the ground. The head of an axe has a bit or blade at one end and a poll or butt on the other. Some of the heads are a double bit, which means cutting the blade on each end of the head. The top corner where the cutting edge starts is called the toe and the bottom part is termed the heel.

This axe goes for power, with a longer 19-inch handle and a large head. At just 2 pounds, it’s remarkably lightweight for such a powerhouse. The Gränsfors Bruks Small Forest Axe is a great little tool that easily slips into a medium-sized backpack and can easily conceal if you wish to travel covertly through the woods. Of course, you can always get something smaller, and you can still get something bigger, but if this is your first axe, it’s a great one to have. Many people who buy Gränsfors Bruks axes end up buying more than one to have the perfect tool for each job. This axe is one of my favorites, one of the ones I always reach for…The Small Forest Axe by Gränsfors Bruks. All the workers engrave their initials on the axes they craft, so the quality control is first-rate.

23″ overall. 5.25″ black finish carbon steel axe head with 5.25″ cutting edge. Brown wood handle. Leather cord wrapped handle. Bulk packed. Made in India. 20.5″ overall. 9″ black finish carbon steel axe head with 6″ cutting edge. Brown wood handle. Brown cord wrapped handle. Bulk packed. Made in China. 20″ overall. 6.5″ black finish carbon steel axe head with 2.5″ cutting edge. Brown wood handle. Bulk packed. Made in China. 34.25″ overall. 8″ black finish carbon steel axe head with 7.25″ cutting edge. Brown wood handle with black leather cord wrap. Bulk packed. Made in China. 13″ overall. 4 5/8″ stainless axe head with 5 1/2″ cutting edge. One-piece round design brown sassafrass wood handle. Brown leather belt sheath. Made in Italy. 3.38″ satin finish stainless axe head. Brown wood handle. Full, extended tang. Lanyard hole. Black nylon belt sheath. Boxed. Made in China. 10 1/4″ overall. 4 1/2″ 1045 high carbon steel axe head with 2 5/8″ cutting edge. American Hickory handle. Brown leather belt sheath. Made in El Salvador. 17 3/4″ overall. 5 1/2″ 1045 carbon steel axe head with 3 1/2″ cutting edge. American Hickory handle. Brown leather belt sheath. Made in El Salvador. 18″ overall. 7 1/4″ 1045 high carbon steel axe head with 4″ cutting edge on one side and 3 3/4″ cutting edge on other side. 11.5″ overall. 4.75″ 1060HC steel axe head with 2.25″ cutting edge. Hickory handle. Lanyard hole. Brown leather sheath. Bulk packed. Made in El Salvador.

Wood handles are also the cheapest of the three types and handles temperature extremes best. It won’t get brittle or unpleasant to hold in real cold, nor will it feel “whippy” in real heat, like cheap fiberglass handles might. Replacement for axe models PRA0306C, PRA0306D and PRA0306TH. 16.5″ overall. Hickory handle. Replacement handle for Travel Hawk axe . Hang packaged. Made in El Salvador. 11.13″ overall. Hickory handle. Replacement for Mini Greenland hatchet. Hang packaged. Made in El Salvador. 22″ overall. American Hickory handle. For Valhalla throwing axe. Hang packaged.

This will mean it is also sharp enough to chop through wood and other plant matter. Once you have hit or pecked down the rock until it is about the size of your palm, you will need to form the cutting edge of the axe head so it is sharp. The axe head should taper down toward the cutting edge. The cutting edge should be a similar thickness to a steel axe, with a narrow edge. You will need strong cord to secure the stone axe head to the axe handle. You can find cord made of bark at outdoor supply stores. Wet rawhide can also be found in outdoor supply stores. You will need a piece of “green” wood that is at least two to three feet long. Look for a piece of wood that is not too wide or too narrow.

Soaking requires less hands-on attention, while brushing requires more but allows you to use the tool faster, in between finish layers if you choose to do so. Hi David, it is accurate within the timeframe most active people are willing for their tools to be out of action. Waiting 1-2 weeks for one single coat of raw linseed oil to dry is not acceptable. Moreover, for building up layers of hard finish with linseed oil, then boiled linseed oil is necessary. The refinishing I do on axes requires a coat per day for over a week. Further, it is generally accepted that boiled linseed oil is better for durability on tool handles as it tends to provide a harder finish. The Hudson Bay axe from Snow & Nealley features a 1.75-pound head with a profile suitable for splitting, felling, and many other bushcraft activities. The 24-inch hickory-wood handle is sturdy and comfortable to hold and use, and it’s compact and lightweight enough to easily transport through the wilderness.

Splitting mauls are a little bit heavier but this gives them more efficiency in wood splitting. Before you jump right in, you’ll need to determine whether you need an axe or a hatchet. While having both is useful, sometimes taking both is overkill and a waste of space. The bigger job, and the more room you have, the more likely to are to need an axe, with it’s superior size and thus strength for cutting off green boughs or felling trees. For portability, lightness of weight, and capacity to be used quickly as both a self-defense tool and a fast-hacking log splitter, you’ll want a hatchet. Either way, getting one of the 9 best camp axes and hatchets is sure to make your excursion a success. The most common ax in the woods, these small to mid-sized choppers are useful for both camping and survival.